A climber happily takes on her ascent. Climbing requires a combination of athleticism and artistry. | PHOTO: ENVATO/HEROIMAGES
RADAR
Raise the Roof
Indoor climbing is scaling new heights across Canada.
By Sean Deasy
For Alex Leonard, indoor climbing is all about mental gymnastics. A veteran instructor with certification from the Climbing Wall Association (CWA), Leonard has spent the last 10 years instructing at the Toronto Pan Am Sports Centre and other facilities. This isn’t just about breaking a sweat while scaling walls, he says. It’s more complex, requiring a unique blend of athleticism and artistry. “The sport of climbing is a combination of things,” Leonard explains. “There is a problem-solving aspect to it, which I find to be much more stimulating than other forms of working out. There’s the thrill of a challenge and a great level of satisfaction that one gets from completing a difficult climb.”
Indoor climbing is categorized into three disciplines: bouldering, which involves short, rope-free routes over crash pads; top-roping, where a rope is pre-anchored at the top for maximum safety; and lead-climbing, an advanced method in which the climber clips their rope into safety points as they ascend.
With ascension, says Leonard, comes choreography. “The movements involved in climbing just feel good sometimes — a well-set route can make a climber feel like he or she is doing a dance.” This dance is currently being performed by more Canadians than ever before. Once a niche training activity for mountaineers, indoor climbing has moved into the mainstream, fueled by a desire for experiential fitness. In the Niagara region, there is one dedicated year-round indoor climbing gym — Gravity Niagara in St. Catharines, a bouldering-specific gym with low-profile walls. There are also many adventure and entertainment walls, where the experience is built around “gamified” physical activity. (Unlike traditional gyms, these facilities require no technical gear — participants wear running shoes — and climbers need no experience.) From high-tech bouldering hubs to traditional top-rope walls, climbing spots offer a democratic environment where technique often triumphs over raw power. Whether you are navigating what is known as a problem or clipping into a lead line, the sport provides a full-body workout that scales to a range of ability levels.
(From top) A young climber takes on a wall at Gravity Niagara in St. Catharines; Gravity Niagara offers a host of challenges. | PHOTOS: COURTESY OF GRAVITY NIAGARA
“The movements involved in climbing just feel good sometimes — a well-set route can make a climber feel like he or she is doing a dance.”
Leonard has witnessed a significant shift in the sport’s visibility. He recalls a time when the community was virtually non-existent — he often found himself the only climber in the facility. However, fueled by a younger generation looking for alternatives to traditional sports and the recent inclusion of climbing in the Olympics, he has seen a surge in participation among students and families alike. Leonard notes that while he sometimes wonders if the perceived popularity is becoming exaggerated by the number of new facilities springing up, he expects the upward trend to continue — particularly as professional athletes become more prominent in the public eye.
When welcoming newcomers who may feel intimidated by the physical demands of the wall, Leonard emphasizes that climbing is an inherently inclusive activity that transcends physical stereotypes. Instead of viewing physical differences as barriers, he teaches beginners to embrace their unique builds as part of the learning process, he says. “And there are advantages or disadvantages to every person’s particular physique.” Through his technical classes — ranging from casual drop-ins to advanced lead-climbing — he guides new climbers to focus on how their own bodies move, showing them that the sport is accessible to anyone willing to start.
“An advantage in a particular sport does not always translate into success while climbing,” says Leonard. “Anyone can do well if they dedicate themselves to improving their technique.” CAA